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Scotland: Central & South Highlands

Sheltering from spindrift at the foot of the NW ridge of Beinn a'Chlachair, a Munro in the Central Highlands of Scotland. (Colin Henderson)

Participants – Davy, Stephen, Kenny, Iain, Richard

I organise an annual winter camping trip for work. This year the location was the Ardverickie Forest near Loch Laggan in the Central Highlands.

The plan was for us to walk in Friday and camp on the shores of Lochan na H-earba. On Saturday, we’d climb three Munros, Beinn a’Chlachair, Geal Charn and Craig Pitridh, and on Sunday, a Graham, Binnean Shuas. All easy hills if the weather plays ball.

A typical Scottish winter’s weekend forecast;

  • Storm-force winds
  • Gusts up to 70mph
  • Whiteouts
  • Visibility often nil

We decided to suck it and see. What a battering we got.

We chose the NW ridge of Coire Mor Chlachair as it takes you out onto Beinn a’Chlachair’s summit. It’s a fairly steep walk with a rocky step at the bottom. When we got there, the wind was mental and blasted snow in our faces at a rate of knots (pic above). Davy fought through it and found a 10m snow ramp leading up onto the ridge. He and Iain managed to kick only tiny footholds in the snow as they scampered up the steep slope. Kenny, Richard and I, mindful of the ankle-snapping boulders below, decided to put on crampons.

When we all met up again it was in a maelstrom. The wind speed was fantastic – maybe 50mph? I don’t know but often we couldn’t move – and our world was one full of spindrift. It was difficult to stand up and a struggle to see. We tried to climb further up the ridge but safe progress was nigh on impossible and we soon turned tail and ran back to camp.

The result? No summits but all very exhilarating. A good, goggles-on winter’s day out.

See my Facebook page for more pics.

 

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View from near the summit of Bheinn Bheoil, a Munro in the West Highlands of Scotland (looking over pt 955m and Loch Ericht) (Colin Henderson)

I was lucky enough to be chosen as today’s Photo of the Day in Let’s be Wild, an online magazine dedicated to publishing stories and pictures of people travelling and adventuring around the world.

The photo they chose was one I took late in the day from near the top of the Munro, Bheinn Bheoil, in the Central Highlands of Scotland. As this peak is located 17km from the nearest roadside, we cycled in the day before and spent the night at Culra bothy. In the morning, we scrambled up Ben Alder’s Long Leachas ridge before heading down to a bealach just out of picture to the right. We then followed the ridge up to Bheinn Bheoil’s summit.

I hung back to take photos on the way up and snapped this shot looking back as some nice light broke through the clouds and lit up Loch Ericht.

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Approaching the Long Leachas ridge, Ben Alder, West Highlands of Scotland (Colin Henderson)

Participants – Alex Haken, Richard Clarkson, Iain Kaye, Colin Henderson

Last winter, three of us (Richard, Alex and I, meeting up with Iain from Ullapool) left Edinburgh on a Friday night. After stopping for amazing chips in Pitlochry we arrived at Dalwhinnie station car park around 8.00pm. All that stood between us and bed was a 15km bike ride.

I borrowed a bike for the weekend, which a friend had kindly went out his way to prepare for me. But I hadn’t cycled since a winter camp two years previously, and before that two years hence. Alex was similiar. We decided Richard was the expert biker between us with recent miles under his belt and because he had a helmet. It seemed fair then to let him go first, hailing him as we did the ‘pot-hole poodle’, as we sped alongside Loch Ericht.

It’s a very easy cycle to Ben Alder Lodge but after this you leave the road behind and continue, slightly uphill, on a good, if somewhat bumpy landrover track towards Loch Pattack.  It was early on here I snapped the chain on Andy’s bike whilst standing up and pushing down with my obviously too powerful leg muscles. (*Ping* went the pin that held the chain link together. *Ching* went my teeth as they – most unexpectedly – said hello to the handlebars). We couldn’t find the pin or fix the chain in the cold so we decided to leave it until in the bothy. The last time I was in at Culra I got a puncture with no repair kit and had to push. History repeated itself, with this time Alex and Richard kindly offering to join me. I don’t think they grumped once which was nice. (Perhaps because it was icy so we would have done much of this on foot anyway). At the bothy, we met Iain and, after listening to tales of his derring-do in a whiteout on the plateau across to Geal Charn (“It was scary – I couldn’t tell if it was a cornice or a snow slope”) we were in bed asleep by 11.30pm. Half an hour later some folk from Glasgow appeared with a small dog called Holly and we had a full house.

In the morning we headed for Ben Alder and the Long Leachas ridge. Graded in Dan Bailey’s ‘Scottish Ridges’ book as a G1 winter climb but ‘barely a technical challenge’ it looked to be good fun and had a fair covering of snow. Foregoing wet feet, we crossed the river by using the bridge back downstream then headed up towards Ben Alder. The Long Leachas is the right-hand ridge of a scalloped corrie (it looks much shorter than the Short Leachas, until you see it side on). It’s a mixture of interesting walking interspersed with steep grass and small buttresses and provided us with lots of entertainment (and concern sometimes, in small doses) as we whacked ice axes into the turf and up and around rock pillars.

At the top of the ridge the visibility was poor but it soon cleared up. As we walked up the plateau to the top of Ben Alder the cloud gradually rose and we found ourselves in blue skies. Which is always nice. We even saw a white rainbow, which caused a bit of Googling about on Sunday night (I’m still not too sure what causes it – there’s not too much on the web about it).

After Ben Alder we descended to the bealach, crossing old avalanche tracks, and then went up Beinn Bheoil before descending back to the bothy. You can really appreciate how large Ben Alder is from this summit – it’s huge.

We were joined on Saturday night again by the folk from Glasgow. They had followed us up the ridge (dog included). They had fuel for the fire, which was nice, but also a nephew who spoiled his sleeping bag after drinking too much. On the platform underneath, Iain soon switched sleeping platforms when there was talk of seepage!

On Sunday we left early so Alex could catch his daughter’s birthday party. With a healthy chain again, it took us 60 minutes bothy to car.

I specialise in capturing people hill walking, hiking and backpacking in the Scottish Highlands & Islands. If you are interested in a photographic record of your day or weekend out, please contact me.


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