Patagonia - A travel and trekking guidebook to Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park
 
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Los Glaciares National Park

1. Where is Patagonia?
2. Why is it called Patagonia?
3. What is Los Glaciares National Park?
4. How do I get there?
5. Where can I stay?
6. What is the weather like?
7. Planning a trip
8. Buying maps

1. Where is Patagonia?

Patagonia is the generic name for 800,000km square of land at the tip of South America. Bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east, it is owned by both Argentina and Chile. Although its bad weather and harsh surroundings make it one of the least densely populated places on earth, many people visit for the spectacular scenery and the glaciers forming Los Glaciares National Park.



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2. Why is it called Patagonia?

In 1520, Ferdinand Magellan became the first European to navigate around the southern tip of mainland South America. Whilst Magellan’s fleet had wintered at Puerto San Julian, a giant, partly-clothed native was spotted on the shore, dancing around on the sand. Antonio Pigafetta, Magellan’s chronicler —one of only 18 men who returned to Spain, having circumnavigated the globe— describes his appearance as “so tall that the tallest of us only came up to his waist” and that his feet were covered with the skin of a guanaco “in the manner of shoes”.

Legend has it that Magellan, on perusing this member of the Tehuelche tribe, either declared to his men “Ha! Patagon!”, from the Spanish ‘paton’ meaning ‘big feet’, or, as Laurence Bergreen describes in his book ‘Magellan’s Terrifying Circumnavigation of the Globe’, called them Pathagoni, from the Spanish ‘Patacones’, meaning ‘dog with great paws’.

Yet another theory is offered by Bruce Chatwin in his book, ‘In Patagonia’, suggesting that Magellan had on board a copy of ‘Primaleon of Greece’, a book published in 1512 that talked of the Knight Primaelon travelling to a far off island and meeting a ‘cruel and ill favoured people who eat raw flesh and wear skins’. In their midst was a monster called the Grand Patagon, which Primaelon felled with a ‘single sword thrust’ before allowing it to recover and shipping it home to meet his queen. Chatwin, who queries the literal Spanish translation of the word ‘patagon’, mentions how Magellan captured a native Indian in his time at Puerto San Julian and took him on board, possibly with the intention of taking him home for the king...

CONTINUED IN THE BOOK - A detailed history of Patagonia, including more on Ferdinand Magellan, who the native inhabitants were, early attempts at colonisation, the first settlers and early explorations by explorers such as Antonio de Viedma, Robert Fitz Roy, Charles Darwin and Dr Francisco 'Perito' Moreno.

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook

2. What is Los Glaciares National Park?

Los Glaciares National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site named after a multitude of glaciers that flow east from the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap - the largest expanse of ice in the southern hemisphere outside of Antarctica.

The park was created by the National Parks Department of Argentina in 1937 to protect and preserve a vast wilderness area which remains heavily affected by the geological process of glaciation. It is located in the south-west region of Argentina’s Santa Cruz province, in Patagonia, at the tip of South America.

Los Glaciares National Park's boundaries encompass the eastern edge of the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap and, generally, all the glaciers exiting east from the ice between 49º 15’ S and 50º 40’ S. This area, roughly about 6,000km square, includes the mountains and forests of the Patagonian Andes and the western edges of Lago Argentino and Lago Viedma; two huge glacial lakes that deposit the ice into the Atlantic Ocean via the Rio Santa Cruz.

Major visitor attractions in Los Glaciares National Park include the Perito Moreno Glacier and the mountains of the Fitz Roy region...

CONTINUED IN THE BOOK - A detailed history of Los Glaciares National Park, including available information sources, when you should visit, things to do in the park and details of the relevant park maps and orientation.

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook

3. How do I get to Los Glaciares National Park?

The access town to Los Glaciares National Park is El Calafate, 80km east of the Perito Moreno Glacier. 220km north-west of El Calafate, the smaller town of El Chalten gives access to the mountains of the Fitz Roy region.

The easiest, but most expensive, way to get to El Calafate is to fly direct from Buenos Aires (Aerolineas Argentinas: www.aerolineas.com.ar and others) . The flight takes around 3.5 hours, an hour or so longer if the pilot detours via the scenic mountain town of Bariloche and the ice-clad Cerro Catedral.

Buenos Aires has two airports. Aeropuerto Ministro Pistarini, or Ezeiza, (www.aa2000.com.ar / 011-5480-6111) is the main airport, found 47 km outside the city centre. It serves the major international carriers, including Lufthansa, Air France, Air Canada and American Airlines, as well as the main national carrier, Aerolineas Argentinas. To continue south by air to El Calafate, you must transfer to the domestic airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (www.aa2000.com.ar /011-5480-6111). The easiest way to do this is by remis (taxi) or minibus. There are booths in the arrivals hall.

From El Calafate you can get a bus or coach tour or drive to El Chalten, across the Patagonian steppes...

CONTINUED IN THE BOOK - Full details on how to get to Los Glaciares National Park, including travel guides to El Calafate and El Chalten, and relevant bus, tour, and taxi services and car hire.

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook

4. Where can I stay?

The towns of El Calafate and El Chalten both have an extensive selection of campsites, bunkhouses, hostels and hotels.

There are also estancias (from the verb estacionar in Spanish, meaning to stop) dotted across the Patagonian steppes which have been turned into tourist accommodation. These are the settlement houses of Patagonian sheep and cattle farmers. Many of them have been around since the days of the Indian raids in the 19th Century.

There is a 5-star hotel next to the Perito Moreno Glacier...

CONTINUED IN THE BOOK - Full details for both El Calafate and El Chalten, including arrival information, information sources and town services, where to stay, places to eat and drink, other things to do and where to buy supplies and hire equipment.

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook

5. What is the weather like?

The prevailing weather in El Calafate, over 200km east of the Andes, is generally dry and windy. The village of El Chalten, which lies immediately below the Andes and directly east of the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap, receives much more inclement weather.

Up in the mountains, the average rainfall can be more than 2000mm per annum. In Summer, the prevailing weather is generally frigid and unsettled with strong winds but not unlike a country like Scotland, where blustery, damp squalls are interspersed with bright, sunny spells and it doesn’t feel that cold as long as you are attired for it...

CONTINUED IN THE BOOK - Full geography, climate and weather information, including the reason for the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap and an explanation for the prevailing weather conditions.

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook

6. Plannng a trip

In the book, you'll find all the information you need for a trip to Los Glaciares National Park, including local information on the following topics, a reading list and a complete list of resources available to you for trip planning.

- Travelling independently
- Using a tour operator
- Booking flights
- City accommodation
- Passports and visas
- Money
- Insurance
- Language
- Telephoning home and abroad
- Electricity
- Health and safety
- First aid
- Fitness
- Photographs
- Vaccinations
- Returning home
- Onward travel to Chile (Torres del Paine national park)

Some useful websites listed in the book;

Airports and transfers -
www.aa2000.com.ar
www.tiendaleon.com.ar

Park website -
www.losglaciares.com

Town websites -
www.calafate.com
www.elchalten.com

Weather -
www.accuweather.com
www.weather.com

CONTINUED IN THE BOOK - All the information you need for planning a trip, along with a bibliography and an 11-page section on clothing and equipment with a checklist and tips for best use.

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook

8. Buying maps

Local publisher, Zagier & Urruty (www.patagoniashop.net) publish the following maps.

  • LGNP Ecomapa
  • LGNP Minimap
  • Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre - Trekking and Mountaineering
  • Patagonia Southern Icefield

You can purchase the maps in El Calafate or El Chalten, or on the internet at;

  • www.stanfords.co.uk
  • www.longtitudebooks.com
  • www.patagoniashop.net

IN THE BOOK - Trekking routes, visitor attractions, town guides to El Calafate and El Chalten, and more...

Los Glaciares National Park guidebook
   
 

All content on this site copyright of Colin Henderson or Zagier & Urruty Publications, PO Box 94, Sucursal 19, C1419ZAA, Buenos Aires, Argentina. No part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any informational storage or retrieval system without written permission.

The author and publisher do not accept responsibility for any loss, error, injury or inconvenience incurred by people using the information contained in these web pages. Trekking in a mountain environment is a potentially dangerous activity. You are completely responsible for your own safety and should seek expert tuition if in doubt of your own abilities.